Empty Plates

28. Before Michelin stars and Instagram tables; William Sitwell on what we’ve lost and found in dining out and why Dishoom does it right!

Anjli Vyas

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0:00 | 44:09

In today’s episode, Anjli is joined by William Sitwell  one of the UK’s most established food writers, a restaurant critic for The Telegraph,  authors and broadcasters. He’s the former editor of Waitrose Food magazine,  a familiar face on MasterChef, and the author of The Restaurant: A History of Dining Out — a book that traces how the simple act of eating out has evolved across centuries and continents.

This episode isn’t just about the history of restaurants; it’s also about what dining means right now. With William, we talk about that tension between nostalgia, simplicity, and skill  and what it really takes to create a restaurant that leaves a mark. We also explore London’s shifting food culture, the role of memory in dining, and why restaurants like Dishoom have done such a brilliant job of capturing the soul of Bombay within the London scene.